>>Heat Exchanger DIY

[splinter]

Recently fitted an aftermarket heat exchanger to help reduce intake air temperatures and improve performance.

If you are so inclined, it is easy...

Tools required:
wheel chocks
floor jack
jack stands
drain pan
safety glasses

8 mm open end wrench
#20 Torx bit
8 mm socket
10 mm socket
13 mm socket
17 mm socket
ratchets
ratchet extensions
torque wrench (for lug bolts)
pliers/Channel Locks
dykes/side cutters (for pulling, not cutting, plastic rivets)
drill/drill bits
blue masking tape

Optional tools:
work light
drop cloth
shop towels
torque wrench (for lug bolts)
recycling containers (for old antifreeze)
bin or tray for hardware storage

Optional consumables:
MB #124 990 04 92 under-bumper plastic rivets
MB #002 997 33 86 fender liner plastic rivets
MB #1 03 0002 antifreeze
distilled water
and, of course, refreshing beverages

Safely raise and secure the car -



Apply the blue tape to the bumper/fender junction to help reduce the possibilty of scratching the paint.
Remove the bumper - http://forums.mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2333330 linked with permission from author

Store the hardware in a bin to aid reassembly -



With the motor cool, remove the drain plug from the radiator and the hoses attatched to the heat exchanger -




Remove the OE unit -



Test fit the new piece -



Note that the overall dimension of the tank is offset somewhat toward the LH side of the car.
When the hose bungs are included, it is relatively centered.

Tank-to-bracket vertical relationship -



Ensure that the fore-aft location of the new heat exchanger does not contact any of the air conditioning equipment that is directly behind.

Wearing saftey glasses, drill the lower radiator support for its mounting hardware, and secure -



Connect the hoses. Open the petcock. Pour some fresh distilled water/antifreeze into the reservoir to help flush any installation induced debris from the system -



Close the petcock. Refill the entire cooling system with a 50/50 mix of MB antifreeze and distilled water. Start the motor and check for leaks. Verify your all work before reinstalling the bumper.

Top off the antifreeze. After several heating and cooling cycles, the intercooler circuit must be properly bled of any residual air pockets -


With the motor cool, remove and direct the vent (yellow) hose into a suitable container. With the aid of an assistant,
have him raise the RPM to just above 3000, while you gently close off of the intercooler fluid return line (red). When only fluid (with no air bubbles) is observed being discharged, you're good to go.

[MikeSSw203]

[Ben E55]

Well done, thanks for sharing the info!

[Benzoboi]

Very nice write up!!!

[John 99clk430]

[rlee02135]

Great write-up John! Did you go with a LET or Code3 Heat Exchanger? Is there a noticeable difference after install?

[splinter]

Thanks, gentlemen. There will be more from the garage soon…

I installed the LET piece since Code3 supplied the anti-roll bar links.

My butt dyno is woefully inaccurate. However, it does indeed feel a stronger kick. Data logging results have thus far been encouraging, with IAT reductions of <30F at WOT. Sanctioned events are next on the agenda. When the debilitating heat of summer is upon us once again, I'm almost certain it will have been a worthwhile investment.

[newton]

Good job man!

[c32used]

Awesome Splinter I can't wait to install mine! Any other suggestions? Also thanks again for the sticker you are a gentlemen!