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was good fellas... i have an w211 e500 which i currently dropped using the washer method for the front n relocation of sensor in the rear which worked fine but now i have noticed that my passenger side front n rear sits a lil high than my driver side does anybody know what can be causing this issue?
 

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Hey folks, I'm the original owner of a low-100ks 2006 E320 diesel and did a front suspension overhaul this weekend. I couldn't find a definitive parts list/post on my particular make/model before ordering all the stuff and getting into it, so the following is what I came up with to replace all wearable items in the front suspension system.

I've been noticing a squeak and some steering sloppiness, so decided to just overhaul everything to return the front end to as like-new as possible (within reason).

My model is the 955 (elegance) suspension code, which means no air, just springs and regular shocks. Apparently 'elegance' is a somewhat rare suspension code but the only real difference in it and some more common codes is a pair of rubber bumpers in the springs that I assume are for noise dampening. Those rubber bumpers are no longer available from any place I tried to order from so must be re-used.

Here's my parts list..

124-990-04-92

(x10, plastic rivets for the plastic liners that you'll have to remove/put back)

211-320-38-89
211-320-39-89

(front sway bar links, left/right)

211-323-95-00

(Bilstein shocks, x2)

211-330-04-35

(steering knuckle ball joints, x2)

211-330-43-11
211-330-44-11

(front lower control arms #1, left and right)

211-330-89-07
211-330-90-07

(front upper control arms, left and right)

211-330-81-07
211-330-82-07

(front lower control arms #2, left and right)

211-330-27-03
211-330-28-03

(tie rod end, left and right)

211-321-00-84

(spring rubber pad, x2)

211-321-15-04

(front springs, x2)

211-323-00-92

(front shock rubber boots, x2)

211-320-00-26

(front shock mounts, x2)

I shopped all this stuff from dealerships selling online to multiple aftermarket parts dealers, and found Pelican to be the best deal. I also ordered some replacement plastics but all told, my invoice came out to about 1800 dollars, using Lemforder parts for the bulk of it and original Merc branded parts if there was no Lemforder alternative.

This is, of course, ordering everything in assemblies rather than re-using the metal (but for the steering knuckles, which are retained). The steering knuckles (the part that your hubs/wheel bearings/control arms mount to) are only available as original Merc parts and are over 400 dollars each. They are all steel and quite rugged, but for one ball joint per side, so rather than spending 850 dollars on these, keep your old ones and replace the ball joints that are pressed into the knuckles, which are about 45 dollars each.

Note on the above: the steering knuckle ball joint is press fit and your old one probably has some rust after this many years, it will not come loose without at least an impact-driven press (probably). We tried torching one and never got it loose. Even if you get it loose, you need a reliable way to set the new one. You need an impact driven ball joint press for this, at least. In our case we passed 20 bucks through the back door of the local Firestone and one of their guys popped the old ones out and the new ones in for us.

Note on springs: you will need someone to assemble the springs/shocks for you unless you happen to have a particular spring compressor that will work. This is tricky, the springs have quite a bit of compression to accomplish before you can attach the cap. You will not likely accomplish this with a ratchet/wrench driven spring compressor. Again, better to throw a 20 through the back door of a suspension shop and have them do it for you, not only do the springs have to be compressed to assemble the parts but they have to fit right on the rubber stop in the cap in the process. This is not a job that you will be able to 'muscle' into completion with ratchet straps and a mickey-mouse compressor.

Note on the SBC hydraulic ABS and traction control system (if you have it): Don't unlock or open the doors of the car after you have the calipers off unless you have the SBC unit's power disconnected, or you'll have to bleed a lot of the brake fluid out to re-set the calipers. If you do anything that causes the electrical system to 'wake up' while doing all of this the hydraulic pump will try to pressurize itself, but since the calipers are loose it won't be able to do so. You will be left with the brake calipers fully clenched, and the computer will make some error codes. It's not the end of the world if this happens, worst case scenario is you have to bleed some fluid to get the calipers back on and then fill the fluid back up, but it can be avoided by simply leaving the car alone until everything is re-assembled.

Here are the relevant parts drawings. The 955 suspension code 'elegance' rubber spring bumpers are highlighted in blue (on the right). The retained steering knuckles and their press-fit ball joint are also highlighted in blue (on the left).

Other than pressing those two ball joints and setting new springs on the new shocks, this is a wrench/screwdriver job, albeit a tedious one with some banging and a little heavy lifting, bring a friend and you can knock it out in one day.

After front alignment, all commonly wearable front end items will be new, and your front suspension/steering should be just like it was when the car rolled out of the factory. Enjoy. For more detail related to Mercedes Benz authorize service center or call on Mercedes helpline number.
 
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